Adios Patagonia, Hola Buenos Aires

After spending some time in Puerto Natales regrouping, doing laundry, resting our bodies, getting our fill of scrabble games that we missed while on the trek, and letting the hike around Torres sink in, we realized that we had some extra time.  Both Dave and I thought it would be amazing to try out fly fishing, although neither of us had ever done it before.  So, we went into a number of shops that advertised fly fishing on posters that screamed out, "book your fly fishing trip here" and the responses in spanish were, "oh no, we don't do that here". We were very confused as we were staring straight at the signs, but we eventually discovered after our 3rd of 4th attempt to book a trip, and to or dismay, that the season was unfortunately over.  We drowned our sorrows of this unfortunate discovery in the most delicious chocolate cappuccino and chocolate mousse pie (it is important to support the local economy of course...!) and we decided to rent a car and go car camping right outside the Torres del Paine park. 

We wound up lost on the way to our campsite of preference (if every time I got lost was this strikingly gorgeous, then I wouldn't mind being lost all the time) and ended up on the opposite side of the park. A 45 minute drive, 65$ toll to drive through the park would have been the cost to make it back to our intended campsite. Shockingly, we opted against that. Instead we made our way to a hotel just outside of the park to see if we could camp outside of the hotel. The hotel was closed. After mulling over what to do, a man living across from the hotel informed us there was a Refugio that was open that we could stay in. The creepiness factor of the Refugio (and the fact we saw a clown sign on the drive in with Dave's intense fear of clowns) forced us to set up shop right behind our parked car in an open field.  Dave's tent held up incredibly well in the constant, tent-ripping intense winds! 

Photo by Dave

Zipppppp, shuffle shuffle, zippp...."uhh, Liz, get up NOW" is what I was jolted awake to following morning by Dave.  Normally the grumpy factor would kick in for being awoken so harshly, but one look outside at the pink light kissing the edge of the mountains made me thank his bladder for forcing him to get out of the tent.  It was shockingly beautiful and almost made us forget how frigidly cold it was. 

Photo by Dave - check out this impecable yoga form!

After a bus ride back to El Calafate in Argentina, stocking up on chocolate from there (as that is one of the things the town is known for... Is my chocolate addition shinning through in this post or what?!),  and said goodbye to the gorgeous purebred stray dogs of the town, we have sadly left Patagonia and returned to Buenos Aires.  We are staying in the San Telmo area of the city which has a strikingly European feel to it. Upon our arrival, we dropped our bags off in our very quaint and nice hostel, El Sol de San Telmo, checked out the fashion photo shoot that was taking place on the rooftop garden, and then headed out to the streets, catching the tail end of the Sunday market.  It was booming with people selling an assortment of hippie clothing, jewelry and food and other goods, incredible street performers and musicians and tango dancers. The street seemed to go on forever with people as far as the eye could see.  Even the rain couldn't stop the drumline as they beat and paraded their way down the street with people marching behind and dancing in front as water bounced off their drums.

Photo by Dave

Photo by Dave

We are currently sitting in an outdoor cafe, sipping on coffee and watching a couple passionately dancing the tango in the middle of the cafe. Lunch and a show all in one!