Saturday, March 26, 2011

Which way do I look? (Hiking Torres del Paine)

Just when we thought we had seen the most incredibly gorgeous place in El Chalten, we arrived in Chile's Torres del Paine National Park for a 5 day, 4 night trek on the 'W-trail', aptly named for the trails shape (a very inconvenient letter for a trail, which caused backtracking thrice).  After some uncertainty with the weather and the warmth of our sleeping bags, we attended a prep talk and rented a warmer bag and got psyched for our trek.  The bus picked us up from our hostel in Puerto Natales and took us the two hours to the park where the mountains loomed over the rolling hills from every direction and llamas looked up from grazing to see the bus pass by. The sun dramatically broke through the clouds as the weather was constantly changing on every part of the mountain range.  
Photo by Dave- on the way to Campamento Grey

Photo by Dave

We decided to hike from West to East, so our hike began with an overpriced catamaran trip to the Torre Grande Refugio.  It is impressive how many people come here to hike in this park, although not surprising in the least as it is by far the most beautiful place I've had the opportunity to hike before.  The refugios allow visitors who might not normally come and hike for as long because there were rooms that you could rent, food that could be prepared for you, and a small store to purchase highly inflated items for the days trek.  All was very expensive, but a good option for those who didn't want to camp.  They also rented tents and other camping equipment which for some might be a good option as well, although you don't know if they will run out of equipment, and the next Refugio was on average 4 hours away.  We took all of our own camping gear and food which worked perfectly for us.  


Photo by Dave
Camp site Refugio Los Cuernos
Eating dinner at our camp site at Campamento Italiano

Each days hike provided drastically different, and unbelievable 360 degree views.  We hiked on high cliffs through big boulders next to aqua blue glacier fed lakes.  We hiked through hilly landscapes where the mountains surrounded us.  We hiked through blizzards on ridges where the peaks would suddenly appear as the dark clouds moved past and then would disappear just as quickly.  We hiked next to glaciers where the snow would avalanche sounding like thunder.  We hiked through forests (both alive and dead).  We "hiked" through insane winds (as we found ourselves hanging onto rocks for dear life at parts so not to be blown off the edge down to the enormous lake below).  We hiked up steep, steep, steep mountains, and hiked back down them (did I mention they were steep?).  Overall, it was incredible.

Photo by Dave

Photo by Dave
Photo by Dave
Photo by Dave
Photo by Dave - Getting delicious cold drinking water straight from the glacier fed streams!
One of the main highlights was waking up and hiking for an hour in the dark (yes, I shockingly got up early!) to the Mirador Torre lookout to watch the sunrise over the mountains and illuminate the towers that the park is named after.  We had been advised to take a sleeping bag up to the outlook, which we luckily did as it was freezing cold and the winds were roaring.  We had also made some tea which was soul warming.  What an incredible sight. 

Photo by Dave
Photo by Dave


We are now back in Puerto Natales, clean, doing laundry, and figuring out our next adventure.  It has been painfully difficult whittling down the tons of photographs to the few that we're posting now! 

Thursday, March 17, 2011

Hiking in El Chalten

(photo by Dave)

We pulled ourselves away from our ongoing Scrabble competition, ditched the ipad, and began our three day, two night hiking and camping trip.  We began on the Torre (tower in English) mountain trail towards Lago Torre, camped near the glacier next to a raging river that fed from the glacier.  The following day we traversed over another mountain towards the Fitz Roy mountain range where we camped our second night overlooking the jagged mountains where we were met with a dramatic sunset.  Unfortunately, both of my camera batteries died midway through the second day, and the iPad can't read Dave's memory card (although we're working on that), so the photos are mainly from the first day. We got some AMAZING ones on Dave's camera so stay tuned for those. Words keep escaping us to describe this incredibly gorgeous area.  Therefore, we'll let the photos do the talking.










Sunday, March 13, 2011

This place exists?!? Really?!?

 A three hour bus ride brought us to the small, colorful town of El Chalten, which is nestled in the mountains. It is shockingly beautiful here and we spent our first full day here today doing a shorter "warmup" circuit hike where we saw multiple vantage points of the Fitz Roy mountain range. The mountain's jagged peaks loom out of the glacier that feed the lakes below. We will be hiking and camping out for the next night or two, which will allow us to get deeper into this ridiculously stunning place.
lunch behind the Rancho Grande hostel
town of El Chalten

Thursday, March 10, 2011

Buenos Dias Argentina


And the journey continues.... Dave and I are now in Argentina!  Dave has been "tweeting" updates and photos, so for a more day to day update, follow him on Twitter: http://twitter.com/dmbarry87  

We flew into Buenos Aires where we spent a full day recovering from the jet lag, exploring el centro, and butchering our way through the spanish language.  It's nice to be on the road again!  We seem to be a little rusty as there have been a few kinks so far in our travels, the main one being not setting our alarm two hours behind and thus missing my 5:45am flight to El Calafate.  Somehow, luck was on our side and Dave made his flight and I was able to fly standby and got on.  I don't understand how people can handle the stress of flying standby.  What a nerve racking 15 minutes of waiting to see if my name was called, although it was incredibly rewarding when it was!  I felt as though I had won the lottery.

So now, we are very far south in the world in El Calafate, Patagonia.  The land is flat and arid, reminding me of parts of Texas except that enormous, jagged, snow-peaked mountains appear on the horizon.  The wind rips through the area too, and so far has taken my black yoga pants off the clothes line (thought to be incredibly secure) with it.  We wandered around the small, touristy town and partook in some of what El Calafate is known for, particularly the chocolate and steak!  I am fighting off a cold, but the Malbec wine is soon to be experienced as well.  Sometimes it's really tough, but hey, someone's got to do it!  




Today, we went to the Puerto Moreno glacier which was amazing.  Pathways take you very close to the glacier which is one of the largest in the world and is still growing.  Large chunks of ice break off continuously, crashing into the aqua water below sending huge splashes and loud thunderous echoes.  It made for an amazing sight.  We are off to the gem of Argentinian Patagonia, tomorrow - El Chalten.